Simple Motion-Activated LED Light Strip Controller

 

This is a companion article for my YouTube video on building a simple motion-activated LED strip controller that does not require any additional automation software and will work as a standalone system.

I've created other videos and blog articles on building LED controllers, the most popular being Motion-activated Stair Lighting without Staircase Modification.  I had one of my YouTube channel subscribers reach out and ask if a system could be made that didn't require a home automation system, like Home Assistant, to function.  Basically, could a simpler system be created that would work without any additional systems or hardware.

After tinkering around, I came up with the following.  Note that this is a very basic system.  It simply uses one or two motion detectors to turn the LED strip on when motion is detected and shuts the lights off after a user-specified amount of time.  There are no fancy effects like with the popular WLED... you can only select a single color for the light strip and an overall brightness.  But once setup and configured, nothing else is required.  You don't even need wifi after the initial setup, except to update the application or change the settings.

Parts List

The parts list for this project is very similar to the list for the Build Your own LED light strip Controller, but there are some minor changes and some variations if you wish to build the "mini" version or the larger "full size" version, so I'll include the entire list here for both versions

Functionally, both the mini version and full size version are identical.  The costs are nearly the same.  The primary difference, other than size, is that the full size version is a little easier to build/solder due to the availability of the power rails.  In addition to the parts, I'll list the wiring diagrams for both versions below.

Mini Controller

Qty	Description/Link
1	Wemo D1 Mini – ESP8266
1	ElectroCookie Mini Prototype Board

Full Size Controller

Qty	Description/Link
1	NodeMCU ESP8266
1	ElectroCookie Prototype Board

Needed for either version

Qty	Description/Link	Notes
1	Logic Level Shifter
--	WS2812b LED Strip	Qty and length will depend upon your project. Controller will support up to 600 pixels max.
1-2	AM312 mini PIR Sensor	One or two, depending upon your install
	5V Power Supply	Size will be dependent on number of LEDs*
1	Power supply cord	Only for larger “bare” power supplies. Not needed for smaller “brick” style supplies (<15A).
	Misc. wiring 18-24 gauge

Power supply notes:  The power supply needed will depend on the number of LEDs in your install.  As a rule-of-thumb, multiply the number of LEDs by 0.06 to get the number of amps needed and round up to the next available size.  For example, if your project will use 220 LED pixels:

220 x 0.06 = 13.2

In this case, you will want to purchase a 15 amp power supply.  If you order a transformer-style supply for larger installs/amps, you will also need a power supply cord to connect it to AC power.  For smaller "brick" style supplies, this is not needed.

Optional/Recommended Parts

Qty	Description/Link	Notes
1 pkg	JST Connectors	Facilitates connection from controller to LEDs
1 pkg	Spade Connectors	Facilitates connection from controller to LEDs
1 pk	Aluminum LED Channel	Different sizes/shapes available
1 roll	3M Double sided tape	Increases adhesion of LEDs
1 pk	Braided wiring sleeve	For neater wiring runs (also in various sizes)
1 pk	Dupont Jumper Wires	For bench/breadboard testing

A note about the ESP32:

While the ESP32 is becoming much more common for use in these types of projects and does offer additional processing power, it simply adds nothing (other to costs) for this project.  Since no effects are currently included and the lights are simply a "solid effect" on or off, use of the ESP32 is overkill.  So the code currently provided only supports the ESP8266.  If there is enough interest (and rationale) for an ESP32 controller, I can consider releasing an ESP32 version.

Preparing the Controller

Before you build and solder the controller, I would recommend that you flash the software onto the controller, complete the initial configuration and bench test it on a breadboard.  

Flashing Software

To flash the software, you are going to need to install software onto your computer.  I recommend one of the following:

NodeMCU PyFlasher (versions for both PC and Mac) <-- this is my choice

ESPHome-Flasher (versions for PC, Mac and Linux)

The above links both point to Github repositories.  Odds are that you've already used Github repositories, but just in case you haven't (and since this post is targeted at beginners), here's how you get the software.

From the link above, look on the righthand side of the page.  You are looking for a section labeled "Releases":

Click on the release labeled as 'Latest' and from there, download the appropriate application file for your particular platform (e.g. Windows/Mac), found under the section labeled 'Assets'.

Note that neither the NodeMCU PyFlasher nor ESPHome-Flasher require installation.  They are simply executable files that you launch after downloading.  So be sure to note where you are downloading these files since no desktop or other shortcuts will be automatically created. Both versions also have use instructions in their Githubs, so I will only cover the very basics of installing the software here.  See the appropriate Github documentation if you need further assitance.

Controller Software

Now you need to download the latest version of the Standalone LED Controller software.  Just like the flashing software, this is a Github repo, so the same steps are needed.  Go to Standalone LED Controller Github page.

Just like above, go to the latest release from the link on the righthand part of the page.  You want to download the binary file:

 

standalone_led_ESP8266.bin

Download this file and remember where you saved it.  

So to summarize, you should now have the following gathered at the computer you are going to use to flash the firmware onto the microcontroller:

• The D1 Mini or NodeMCU microcontroller
• A micro USB data cable that is connected to your computer (but not yet connected to the microcontroller)
• A downloaded copy of either the NodeMCU PyFlasher or ESPHome-Flasher
• The latest WLED binary file.

(I'll be showing NodeMCU PyFlasher here, but the steps for ESPHome-Flasher are nearly identical).

Assure the USB cable is not yet plugged into your microcontroller. Launch the flasher program by clicking the downloaded .exe (on Windows) file.

Click the dropdown arrow for the Serial Port.

Note any com ports that are currently listed without the microcontroller connected. You may or may not see any ports.

Now, plug in the micro-USB end of the cable to the microcontroller.  You may see a blue LED on the microcontroller flash briefly.  

Now click the refresh button next to the Serial port dropdown and again drop down the list.  You should see a new port listed.  This is the com port to which the microcontroller is connected.  Select it from the list.  Note: if a new com port does not appear, unplug the controller and try again or try a different USB cable.  If a new port still doesn't show up, you may not have the proper USB/UART drivers installed.  See your operating system documentation for installing the UART drivers.

Once the com port is selected, browse to and select the standalone_x.xx.x_ESP8266.bin file you downloaded earlier.  Set the baud rate, flash mode as shown above and be sure to select 'yes, wipes all data'.  Then click the big 'Flash NodeMCU' button and watch the magic happen!

You may wish to jot down the MAC address from the log.  This might help you identify the device on your WiFi network and get its IP address in a later step.  But what you are really looking for is the "Firmware successfully flashed" message.

Connecting the Microcontroller to your WiFi

For this next step, you'll need your phone, tablet or computer that is connected to your local WiFi (an Ethernet-connected device won't work here).  I generally find that my phone is as easy to use as anything.

If your controller is still connected to the computer's USB port from the flashing step above, you will need to unplug it and plug it back in again (this resets it from the programming, or bootloader, mode and puts it back into normal operating mode).  Otherwise, plug the controller back into the computer's USB port.

Open your phone or other WiFi connected device, go to settings and look for a new WiFi network called 'ESPxxxxxx' (the xxxxxx will vary and is based on the last six values of your board's MAC address).  Connect to this Wifi.  You may be prompted by your device that this network does not offer Internet connectivity and asked if you wish to remain connected anyway.  Select 'YES' - stay connected to the ESPxxxxxx network.

What happens next once you connect to the ESPxxxxxx network will vary based on device and operating system.  You may be prompted to sign in to the new network, and clicking the prompt to sign in may take you directly to the controller setup page.

If you are not taken to the controller setup page, then open a browser on your device and go to the address:  192.168.4.1 

Regardless of the steps, you should see the following initial setup page:

You can select Configure WiFi to have the controller scan for local WiFi networks (note this may take up to a minute to complete, so please be patient), or you can select Configure WiFi (No Scan) to skip the scan and manually enter your Wifi name.

If you selected the first option, a list of available WiFi networks will be listed and you can simply tap to select it.  Otherwise, enter your WiFi network name in the SSID field.  Then complete the following fields:

password:  The password for your WiFi network

Number of PIRs:  This will be either 1 or 2 depending on whether you plan on connecting and using one or two motion detectors.  Two motion detectors might be used for something like stairs, where you want motion detected (and the lights to turn on) based on motion either at the top or bottom of the stairs.

Number of LEDs:  Enter the total number of LED pixels in your installation, up to a max of 600.  If you do not know the exact number at this point, just enter an approximation and you can come back and modify this (or any other setting) later.

LED on time: Enter the amount of time, in seconds, that you wish the lights to remain on after motion is no longer detected.  The lights will automatically turn off after this time expires.

LED Brightness:  Enter a value between 1-255 for the brightness of the LEDs.  Again, this value can be changed later.  Note that very low values (<10 or so) may not be visible.

LED Red, Green and Blue:  Enter a value between 0-255 for each of these to determine the color of your lights when on.  For example, to have blue light only, enter 0, 0, 255.  For white, enter 255, 255, 255.  If you need assistance, you can use an online color wheel, such as as this HTML Color Picker.  Click on your desired color and note the RGB values.  Enter these as the values for Red, Green and Blue respectively.

Once all values are entered (again, they can be updated later.. just assure all values are entered and within the appropriate ranges), hit the Save button.  If all values are accepted and written to memory, the following will be displayed:

The controller will reboot and attempt to connect to your WiFi network.  If successful, the ESPxxxxx wireless network will disappear and stay gone.  If it fails, the ESPxxxxx network will reappear and you can try again.  Once it is connected to your WiFi network, connect your device back to your normal Wifi and the board is ready for use.  You will want to obtain and note the IP address of the controller on your network.  This will be needed if you want to change the settings, reboot the controller or later perform over-the-air updates.  You can likely find the IP address via your router, but the method will be dependent upon the router itself.

If you noted the MAC address when you flashed the software, you can use that to assist in locating the IP address.  You can also use the hostname, which should be similar to the temporary access point that was created above.  You are now ready to assemble the controller board.

Building the Controller

I'd highly recommend that your first build and test the controller board with temporary connections on a breadboard before making the permanent soldered version.  You can use the same wiring diagram listed below to create the controller on a breadboard.

D1 Mini Controller Version

Click on picture to enlarge

This version is nearly identical to the version I cover in my YouTube video  Building your own LED controller.  If you want see a step-by-step process of building the controller, please watch that video.  There are just a few important differences that you should note:

• The software installed in that video is WLED.  The software installed for this version is covered above, so you can skip the section on the WLED installation.
• There is an optional button installation.  This version does not use a button, so you do want to omit that optional step.
• While WLED can be installed on either an ESP8266 or ESP32, this particular version can only be installed on the ESP8266 due to the libraries used in the custom firmware.

Otherwise, the video will walk you through creating the controller as shown in the diagram above.

Next, the motion detector(s) need to be wired to the controller:

Click to enlarge

If you only need one motion detector, follow the top wiring and attach the DOUT to the hole next to D5 on the controller.  The second motion detector, if needed, will attach to pin D6.  For both, the 5V and GND connections use the two open pin connections under the HV and GND pins on the logic level shifter, respectively.  Carefully check the pin out of your PIR motion detectors so that you do not reverse the VCC (+5V) and GND connections.  Also either assure your wiring runs are long enough to place the motion detector(s) in the final desired installation location.  Optionally, you may wish to use spade connectors so that you could lengthen the wiring later without the need to desolder the connections on the board.

Finally you are ready to install in the desired location and connect the controller to the power supply and LED strip.

Click to enlarge

You should have the +5V lead, ground lead and LED data signal wire left from the control board that still need to be connected at this point.  If built as described, these wires will come from the underneath side of the board as shown above.  Connect the +5V lead to a the +5V lead from the LED strip and run both to the positive terminal of your 5V power supply.  Repeat for the ground on both the controller and and LED strip.  I show the use of Wago connectors here, but you can use wire nuts, solder the connections together or whatever method you prefer.

Finally the signal wire (shown in green above) needs to connect to the DIN (data in) of the LED strip.  Again, I am using a spade and JST connectors here, but those are optional.  Just assure your connections are at the data IN end of the LED strip (indicated as well by the arrows, which indicate the direction of the the data flow).  

NodeMCU Controller Version

Click to enlarge

The NodeMCU version, while being larger in size and had the two available power rails, is a bit easier to create as all connections can be made on the top side of the ElectroCookie board and can be done before or after the NodeMCU and logic level shifter are soldered to the board.  Again, like the mini version, if you only need one motion detector, connect that one to the D5 pin on the NodeMCU.

Click to enlarge

The NodeMCU version is connected to the 5V power supply and LED strip in the exact same manner as the D1 mini version.  Again, just assure you are connecting to the "data in" side of the LED strip.

Power on process

Regardless of which controller you build, once all connections are verified, plug in the 5V power supply to AC power.  A couple of pixels may light up when power is applied, but the strip should turn briefly blue, then turn off to let you know the boot process is complete.  At this point, any motion detected by your motion sensors should turn on the lights in the color and for the duration you specified during setup.

Rebooting the controller, changing options and updating the software

Starting with v0.30 of the firmware, a web interface is now available to change options and perform other commands like restarting or resetting the controller.  You need to know the IP address of the controller for these options (see above on obtaining the IP address).  Once you have the IP address, simply enter it in the browser of a device on the same WiFi network as the controller.

See the information in the wiki of the Github repo for more information on using the settings page, restarting, resetting or updating your controller as I continue to make improvements to the code and the latest information can always be found there.

Modifying the Program

If you wish to make changes, such as increasing the maximum number of LEDs, changing the pins used, etc., the source is provided in the Github repository.  More information can be found in the repository's wiki.  If you do make improvements to the code, please feel free to post a pull request and I can consider adding it to the base application if there is enough interest.

Please let me know in the comments below if you have any questions!

Links

YouTube videos:

Standalone motion-activated LED Controller

Build your own LED Controller for under $6 with WLED

Motion activated LED stair lighting... without staircase modification!

Other Links:

Firmware for standalone controller

NodeMCU PyFlasher (for flashing firmware to your controller)

Supporting this blog and related YouTube channel

If you'd like to support future content on this blog and the related YouTube channel, or just say thanks for something that helped you out, you can use any of my Amazon links to make a purchase at absolutely no cost to you.  Or if you prefer to say thanks directly, you can buy me a one-off cup of coffee at: